LESVOS 1999. ORNITHOLIDAYS. 25 APRIL- 2 MAY
WEATHER ETC. Sunday 25th April. Fine and fairly bright in the U.K
Fairly good visibility on flight. Little cloud.
Athens, 3 hr stopover, cloudy with heavy showers, 65 F
Lesvos, cloudy with heavy showers. 60F
Monday 26th April. Sunny with some breeze 65F
Tuesday 27th April. Warm and sunny. With a little cloud 71 F
Wednesday 28th April. As above 71 F
Thursday 29th April. Morning cloud soon cleared. Sunny 75 F
Friday 30th April. As above 80 F
Saturday. 1st May. Hot and sunny. One brief thunderstorm. 80 F
Sunday. 2nd May. Lesvos, Hot and sunny, 80 F
Athens, 4 hr stopover. Fairly sunny 65 F
Poor visibility on flight
U.K fine and fairly sunny 55 F
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I arose silently; with the dawn, after a somewhat sleepless night. To exacerbate matters I also had a dreadful churning stomach, which although it was slightly better than it was on Saturday: it was still extremely worrying. What if I should be ill in the wilds of a Greek island, in all probability I would never see my wife and family again.
Therefore I partook of a very frugal breakfast, finished packing and climbed in the taxi at 0515. The driver was a middle-aged lady, who had visited many of the Greek islands including Lesvos and regaled me with tales of how wonderful they all were.
She did have trouble however finding the East Midlands airport, and I had to point out the way on a number of occasions. It was a beautiful sunny morning with banks of mist lying over the low fields, it did not help however when she charged me nineteen pounds even with a reduction for her lost sense of direction. I shan’t be using Chads taxis again.
I had fifteen minutes wait at the deserted airport until the bus arrived, which was about half full. After a trouble free journey via Birmingham airport, we arrived at Heath Row at 0830.
Terminal two appeared to be a dreadful place with a low ceiling and no shops. so since I had plenty of time, I took a walk to terminal 1, where I bought a book and a box of Remegel for my dodgy stomach. Feeling slightly better, but still with an aching back I returned to terminal 2,and discovered that I had previously been in the check in area and not the main hall.
This was much better with all the usual facilities, but even though my stomach was feeling much better after a liberal coating of Remegel, I decided to dispense with the traditional “All day breakfast”. After phoning Pat at 0900, I returned to the main hall to wait, where I discovered Ed and Elaine Gathercole sitting reading the papers. We were shortly reunited with Phil Jones, and other members of the party began to arrive, including the co-leader Paul Rogers. We checked in and moved into the departure lounge shortly after 1015. After sitting around for a while and being introduced all round, the bar opened at 1100, so the Gathercoles and myself repaired thence to have our last taste of English real ale for a week. Elaine had been on a diet and there was virtually,”nowt left of her”, as I told her. We had three pints of Fullers London Pride at 220p a pint and caught up on the family news etc. Ed had little to report but Elaine was expecting either a promotion or to be made redundant, since Boots are restructuring their business headquarters. The beer helped to finally settle my stomach so I was feeling much better by the time we boarded the plane at about 1220. This was an Olympic Airways A300-600b Airbus named”Athena”, in English on one side and Greek on the other which was the normal Olympic practice.
I had a window seat on the port side with loads of legroom. I was shortly joined by a jolly, plump lady from our party who I had not yet met, who had only booked the holiday on the previous Monday. She introduced herself as Joan Wilcox from Edinburgh; although not Scots by birth, and obviously not too short of money judging by her footwear: Mephisto, which start at 130 pounds.
I can quite honestly say that Olympic in flight catering is wonderful. A super Greek based meal topped off by three half bottles of really excellent red wine. When they offered more wine Joan said “I’ve paid for it, so I’m having it”, and we did. Needless to add, by this time my stomach had completely recovered.
We flew in clear weather; over the Alps, down the Italian coast and turned left past Corfu, with Ed watching out for stray missiles the whole way, since we were in the midst of the Kosovo crisis at this time.
We landed at Athens airport in a very heavy shower. On the run in we saw the ships in the harbour, and the Acropolis, through the rain. But the airport, what a dump. Talk about sordid. Packed with people and nowhere much to sit.
We waited for the rain to stop, and ventured outside, taking great care with the traffic, which travelled foot hard down everywhere. Whilst nearly everyone went to a bar opposite the terminal, one of the party; Robin, and myself tentatively crossed the busy road and went into a fairly small but pleasant park, which bordered the sea.
In the park we saw HOUSE SPARROW, BLUE TIT, GREAT TIT, COLLARED DOVE, GOLDFINCH, and MAGPIE. The latter was the only one of the holiday: big deal. Robin, who was a very quiet earnest sort of chap, joined the others in the bar, whilst I returned to the airport lounge where I managed to find a seat, and dozed for a while.
The others awakened me upon their return and we went to join the flight to Mytilini.
I was one of the last to get on and found myself in a window seat in first class on a jam packed B 737-400 named “Phillipi”. There was something of a delay because a somewhat inebriated well-dressed middle-aged Greek lady found her way onto the plane and refused to leave although she hadn’t got a ticket.
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It was all quite hilarious and everyone retained their good humour except for the lady in question. The entertainment ended when the local police arrived and took her away.
By the time we took off it was dark, so all we saw of Athens were the lights, which seemed to stretch for miles in all directions except into the sea of course.
After thirty-five minutes we made a rather violent landing at Mytilini, obviously rather a short runway. We walked into the tiny terminal building, and very shortly collected our luggage. No problems and all very efficient. We then got into two Mitsubishi mini buses, where I drew the short straw in a dreadful folding seat that was hell on my back. This was the first and last time that this seat was used, and in the ensuing week we managed with three in the front, which was quite comfortable providing the participants were fairly slim. The luggage incidentally went on ahead in a taxi. In spite of the seat, I dozed most of the way to the hotel, the only thing occurring to me was that we seemed to spend a lot of time in the lower gears. Not surprising when you consider that in an island of approx. thirty by thirty miles there are two totally separate 3000 foot peaks, one in each half of the island . We arrived at the Hotel Pasiphae near Skala Kallonis at 2300 hours, utterly knackered. We rapidly admired the hotel buildings and the hugh blue back lit swimming pool, and were taken to our rooms. Some of them including mine were in a separate building on the far side of said pool, where we hurried through the rain, with a deafening chorus from the local MARSH FROGS.
I rapidly consumed the light meal left in my very pleasant room, and the complimentary small bottle of ouzo, and flaked out cold.
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At this point, it is convenient to introduce my companions. It took me a day or so to sort them out, but here goes: -
Phil Jones: - who I will refer to from now on as Captain Phil, in order to distinguish him from the other Phil. We had him as leader on last years Hungarian trip. 45, 5ft 8, dark haired, solidly built, lives with his Parents near Croydon when not leading tours. Very professional and considerate, the ideal leader.
Paul Rogers. 50ish, ex schoolteacher, 6ft,well built, balding with a grey beard. Lives with his wife and family on Anglesey in C.F Tunnicliffe’s old House. Originally from Walsall and still has the accent. A bit more frivolous than Phil, and always ready for a laugh. Broke into lecturing mode on occasions when necessary. Generally took the role of “Mr Fixit”
Ed Gathercole: - whom I met with Elaine in Hungary. 45ish, dark hair, slim, lives in Hallam, Notts. Still working as a general handyman/gardener. Dry, lateral sense of humour. Good birder with a quick eye.
Colin Barker: - budding author
Elaine Gathercole:- married to Ed. 43ish, Manager at Boots main factory in Nottingham. Short grey hair, glasses. Has slimmed drastically since we last met, and there is nowt much left of her, as I said previously.
Maureen Ince :- Lives in Glenfarg, Scotland although not Scots. 55 to 65. Medium build, Widowed, 5ft 6, Dark greying hair, rather quiet.
Monica Shaw :- Kingston on Thames, Surrey. 60 to 65, Widowed, very thin and grey haired. Rather dynamic, taking an interest in
everything. Suffering from a bad back all week, like me.
Nancy Lucas:- Glasgow, Scotland. Companion to Lillian. Did not have much to do with anyone except Lillian. 5ft, dumpy, grey hair, 60 to 70.
Lillian Stewart:- Glasgow, Broad Glaswegian accent. 4ft 6, very thin and severely bent. Did not seem to restrict her much. 70 to 80 and needed constant watching for being too ambitious.
Richard Hart:- Tunbridge Wells, Kent. Ex schoolteacher and Oxford don. Bachelor. 60 to 70, 6ft, Prone to abrupt outbursts and a bit of a
Pain to everyone. Thin, Grey haired. Very intelligent and has been
Everywhere and done everything, an avid stamp collector. Bad eyes
Robin Barris :- Hatfield, Herts. Dark haired, solidly built, 5ft 6, 50 to 60. Very slow spoken and serious, lacking humour but quite
pleasant nevertheless.
Stan Kenyon: Leeds. 5ft 8, bald, 60 to 65 Spoke slowly with exaggerated inflexion and quite broad accent, rather like my wife’s Uncle Tommy. Had been to Lesvos in 1998. Along with Ed and Phil
Hodgson probably the best of the punter birders.
Phil and Marion Hodgson:- Difficult to separate them. They were always together, holding hands, talking together. He called her “Babe”.
Learning that it was their second marriage, I thought that they
were newly remarried. Wednesday was their wedding anniversary
and to our astonishment, we found that it was their 11th. Phil was 5ft6, thick dark hair, low on his forehead, stockily built. Aged 45 to 55. Talked incessantly, never stopped, even discussed how to remove the luggage from the locker on the plane, in great detail. He was however something of a comedian, always poking fun at himself and Marion. Prone to get a bit pompous and self important at times, but always accepted any ribbing in good part.
Lived in Purley, Surrey. Talked with a broad southeastern accent.
Although a comparatively recent convert to birding, was in the top
three of the punter/birders.
Marion was of a similar age and size, although slimly built with fair
hair with a long fringe. Pleasant and friendly with a high, girlish
voice, which contrasted with Phil’s deep rather gruff voice.
Joan Wilcox No details, since she only booked the trip five days previously. Although not a Scot, lives in Edinburgh. Plump, jolly lady with blond hair and eyebrows. About five foot seven tall, and could be
any age between 40 and 60. Since she had recently retired, more likely the latter. The most sociable of the unaccompanied ladies. All in all, a disparate group, with the inevitable eccentrics, who all got on well together, and helped each other.
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MONDAY 26 APRIL DAY 2
After sleeping like the proverbial log, I awoke at 0630, dressed, unpacked and went to the main building for an excellent traditional Greek breakfast. We arranged to meet outside at 0830 for our initial walk around” The Pool” a few yards from the hotel. Everyone was up and about as were other birders. Kalloni pool is quite famous as a spot for migrant birds. It was about the size of three football pitches, with approximately one third open water, one third mud, and the remainder, varied greenery and flowers. On the week of our visit it was something of a disappointment, with the number of species reducing as the week progressed. The rough road along the north side of the pond was fringed with tamarisks, which gave off a wonderful redolent scent, with fields and the occasional house and a hotel beyond. Everywhere there were masses of wild flowers, which was pretty general all over the island. About a mile inland the mountains started. The west end of the pond area came to a point with a rough track following the coast with sandy scrub beyond. On the south side was a minor road, and a tree fringed beach with the sea, or to be more accurate the Bay of Kalloni, which was about ten miles east to west, and three miles wide, except for the very narrow access to the open sea.
Skala Kalloni was situated on the north coast close to the extreme eastern or inland end. Directly across the pool from the hotel was the village of Skala Kalloni, approx. a quarter of a mile away.
As we gathered at the hotel gate to await the rest of the early birders, we identified via ‘scopes and bino’s HOUSE MARTINS; which bred on the hotels in enormous numbers, GOLDFINCH, HOODED CROW, GREENFINCH, COLLARED DOVE, CORN BUNTING, and HOUSE SPARROW with distant NIGHT HERON and MARSH HARRIER, as well as a WHITE STORK breeding on a nearby pylon.
As we all set of for the pool, a LESSER WHITETHROAT was quickly identified, and we nearly tripped over a couple of CRESTED LARKS.
My first new bird was not long in coming in the person of OLIVACEOUS WARBLER, chattering in the tamarisks. These are quite confiding for marsh warblers and are fairly common in all suitable habitats.
The pond contained about twenty pairs of breeding BLACK WINGED STILT, plus numerous WOOD SANDPIPERS, plus lesser numbers of SAND MARTIN, GARGANEY, MOORHEN, COOT, SQUACCO HERON, with single examples of GLOSSY IBIS, GREENSHANK and MUTE SWAN, something of a rarity in these parts, whilst COMMON TERN, WHISKERED TERN and YELLOW LEGGED GULL wheeled overhead. These gulls were a feature wherever we went.
Gasps of admiration greeted a couple of BLACK HEADED WAGTAILS looking much more decorative than our own version of this species, the Yellow Wagtail.
As we arrived at the pointed end of the pool I spotted a RED RUMPED SWALLOW zooming over at high speed. Those who missed it were soon pacified by our leaders who promised many more, although Elaine actually took a day or so to actually see one.
The pointed end of the pool although fairly dry, provided much of the entertainment. Whilst I was fruitlessly chasing a white butterfly, the others saw a WATER RAIL fly across the reeds, whilst a LITTLE GREBE skulked in the shallows. One of the local dogs did us a favour when it flushed a SPOTTED CRAKE from out of a patch of sedge. Then to everyone’s delight two WHITE WINGED BLACK TERNS arrived to hunt over the pond. Almost simultaneously two RUDDY SHELDUCK did a low level pass, giving everyone good views. Then someone noticed that a LITTLE EGRET had appeared from out of the reeds. A scan of the sea revealed a solitary GREAT CRESTED GREBE , whilst everyone admired a SPANISH SPARROW perched on one of the conifers on the beach. We continued slowly along the coast, accompanied at a distance by a mangy dog with a severe limp, which I had to forcibly discourage from making our closer acquaintance; despite howls of protest from the dog and some of the ladies. They soon shut up however when I referred to the risk of rabies. All the way we were accompanied by CRESTED LARKS running about on the ground, and CORN BUNTINGS singing on wires and bushes, in fact these species were so common virtually everywhere that I shall in the main stop referring to them, together with COLLARED DOVE, HOODED CROW and YELLOW LEGGED GULL. Everywhere wild flowers of all colours where in profusion.
A first close look at a Lesbian butterfly was rather disappointing as it turned out to be a SMALL WHITE. Things were improving however; as the day got hotter more and more butterflies were appearing, although they appeared to be all SMALL WHITES.
We then approached an area of salt marsh, scrub, and lots of small pools at the estuary of the West River; Capt. Phil. went into hysteric mode as he pointed out to us a magnificent male CITRINE WAGTAIL feeding on the marsh. This was the first our leaders had heard of on the island. Also on the mud flats were a fair number of LITTLE STINT, WOOD SANDPIPER, and KENTISH PLOVER, one of which observing us from about two yards away, obviously had a nest nearby.
We retraced our steps and I went into hysteric mode in my turn as I got to grips with, and identified SOUTHERN SMALL WHITE and KREUPERS SMALL WHITE proving that these small white butterflies were always worth a second glance: whilst fleeting views of SOUTHERN SWALLOWTAIL and SCARCE SWALLOWTAIL bought me to the verge of ecstasy.
We then walked the other side of the pond verging on the village and were most impressed at a large colony of SPANISH SPARROWS on and around a large willow tree. These were not such a common bird as I thought, and it was the only place they appeared in large numbers.
As we walked along we disturbed an enormous GRASSHOPPER fully two and a half inches in length, which settled on a wire fence and was duly admired by everyone.
We subsequently saw several of these so they are obviously quite common.
A COLLARED DOVE sitting on a nest under the roof of someone’s ground floor balcony caused some amusement. Obviously there is a bird-loving element amongst the Lesbian people.
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Although we were walking on a narrow Tamarisk fringed track between the houses and the pool, butterflies were in profusion with good views of IOLAS BLUE, GREEN VEINED WHITE, SMALL WHITE, RED ADMIRAL, SMALL TORTOISHELL, and at last a detailed examination of a SCARCE SWALLOWTAIL
which also subsequently turned out to be fairly common. A walk up the eastern end of the pond back to the hotel revealed nothing much more than BLACK HEADED WAGTAILS, and more WOOD SANDPIPER both of which were proving to be much commoner than expected.
Following an excellent traditional Greek lunch at the hotel we boarded the minibuses and headed around the inland end of the bay. Whilst passing “The Pool”, we noted an increase in the numbers of SQUACCO HERON and had good close views of OLIVACEOUS WARBLER. Passing the end of the bay on the main road we noted a large number of waders on a small marsh on the left, and some twenty or so LITTLE EGRET on the right, on the edge of the Kalloni salt pans. This is a vast area of saline lagoons worked commercially for their salt, and although access is barred it is possible to circumnavigate them; around the boundary, without missing much.
We soon arrived at the area known as Derbyshire on the southern side of the bay. This consists of sea, salt marsh, rock outcrops, and grassy fields. The latter two features being the only ones in common with our county. Beyond the fields about a mile away were the mountains. Similarly the birds did not have a great deal in common with Derbyshire neither. Two male and two female RED FOOTED FALCONS, were perched on the wires, whilst two SHORT TOED EAGLES and a
MARSH HARRIER glided overhead and BLACK HEADED WAGTAILS, CRESTED LARKS and CORN BUNTINGS were everywhere. This was all set off with masses of colourful wild flowers.
We shortly arrived at an area of scrubby pine forest sloping uphill towards the mountains, and studded with rock outcrops. On the south side it sloped down through lush fields and deciduous trees to the sea. The area was known as Achladeri Camp, and was one of the most accessible places in the island to see Krupers Nuthatch. Several other parties of birders were in the area for the same reason.
Paul quickly spotted our first WOODCHAT SHRIKE perched on a wire, and then two new birds for me in quick succession; a magnificent BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, on a bush and the reason for our visit KRUPERS NUTHATCH flitting between the trees. The former disappeared quickly and the nuthatch rarely gave good views despite us persisting for well over an hour.
Other birds seen in the area, GREENFINCH, CHAFFINCH, SERIN, BLACKBIRD and BUZZARD, whilst a CUCKOO calling, and five RED RUMPED SWALLOWS flyng over added a touch of variety. Elaine managed to miss these as well. A CETTIS WARBLER calling in some bushes against the road gave poor views
Butterflies recorded were SMALL COPPER, SMALL HEATH, COMMON BLUE, and RED ADMIRAL.
Back along the road, we paused again at Derbyshire, having good views of BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, GREAT WHITE EGRET, LITTLE EGRET and LITTLE RINGED PLOVER. The RED FOOTED FALCONS were still present, and I had another new bird with the arrival of a flock of twenty plus SHORT TOED LARKS.
The changing bird scene suggested that some migration was taking place, in spite of the settled weather.
On the way back, we stopped at the small marshy pond, known as the “Garage Pool” across from the saltpans, to check on the waders, although trying to park was somewhat fraught, as was the fast moving traffic. An examination of the marsh revealed no less than two hundred and ten WOOD SANDPIPERS, six LITTLE EGRET, two RUFF and one WHITE WAGTAIL. Back on the road, three GULL BILLED TERNS were identified amongst the YELLOW LEGGED GULLS on the saltpans.
Back in Kalloni village whilst we visited the local supermarket, to buy liquid refreshment, we noted a number of COMMON SWIFTS wheeling overhead.
Back at the hotel an excellent meal plus a rather incautious quantity of ouzo, wine Metaxa brandy, and Amstel were consumed, and the pit was hit at about 2300 hours.
TUESDAY 27 APRIL DAY 3
The usual breakfast of muesli, yoghurt, honey, and cold meats and tea soon dispelled my slight hangover. The pool held nothing different other than four TURTLE DOVES flying over. We then joined the minibuses, and drove through the village to the East River. We dismounted from the buses in order to walk along the flood bank inland. The river was about twenty feet wide; shallow, and ten feet below, us fringed by bushes willows and tamarisks .On our left was a ten foot drop into lush fields of long grass and hedgerows all covered with banks of spectacular wild flowers, and butterflies everywhere.
The first birds noted were two LITTLE EGRET, and a GREENSHANK feeding in the shallows. Howls of delight greeted our first BLACK HEADED BUNTING, perched on a reed. The days of “only another Black Headed Bunting” were yet to come. As we walked along the bank we saw KENTISH PLOVER, SQUACCO HERON, LITTLE RINGED PLOVER, OLIVACIOUS WARBLER, WHITETHROAT, and COMMON TERN, whilst we had good views of CETTIS WARBLER and a small party of BEE EATERS flying over. Butterflies noted were MOUNTAIN SMALL WHITE, CLOUDED YELLOW, COMMON SWALLOWTAIL, SOUTHERN SWALLOWTAIL, SOUTHERN SMALL WHITE, LARGE WHITE and SMALL COPPER. In the water were innumerable EUROPEAN POND TERRAPIN. We then reboarded the buses and drove over a ford on to the other side of the river, and continued along the flood bank on the other side where we saw LITTLE BITTTERN, GOLDFINCH, CETTIS WARBLER, and NIGHTINGALE.
The value of the two buses being in contact via CB radio was soon proven when Paul informed us that he had a SOMBRE TIT perched in a bush. Capt. Phil quickly reversed the bus fifty yards, but the tit had disappeared. This worried us as Sombre Tits are an extremely elusive bird to see, or so we were told. We then turned away from the river to drive along a track through marshy small fields awash with flowers, where we saw numerous WHITETHROAT, BLACK HEADED BUNTING and WHINCHAT.
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We stopped at one point to scan a soaring MONTAGUES HARRIER, and promptly spotted four COMMON PRATINCOLES flying towards the saltpans.
Before we actually arrived at the saltpans we could see the eighty-foot high salt mountain near the sea end, which we approached along the perimeter road
. The road was about eight feet above the marshy fields on one side, with a ten-foot drop into the perimeter moat on the other. The bank was as usual fringed with small trees and bushes, with the usual mass of wild flowers. Driving out towards the sea we registered, in the moat, on the pans and in the fields BLACK WINGED STILT, WOOD SANDPIPER, GREAT WHITE EGRET, LITTLE EGRET, GREY HERON, and in the distance a flock of one hundred and twenty or so GREATER FLAMINGO dabbling in the shallows of the salt pans. We halted at a disintegrating, highly dangerous looking cattle grid, and scanned the surroundings where we spotted a number of AVOCET, HOUSE SPARROW, LITTLE EGRET,
LITTLE TERN, RUFF, WHITE WINGED BLACK TERN, BLACK TERN, and the inevitable flock of twenty eight WOOD SANDPIPERS. A solitary BEEATER sat on a fence, giving everyone a good view. The fields on the inland side produced flying BLACK STORK, MARSH HARRIER and COMMON TERN, whilst I spotted a flock of eight COMMON PRATINCOLE wheeling overhead. They stayed for some time giving everyone good views. On the fields Paul spotted more WOOD SANDPIPERS and BLACK HEADED WAGTAILS plus more importantly for us a flock of five RED THROATED PIPITS, some showing a red throat and yet another new bird for me. A NORTHERN WHEATEAR was spotted and then to everyone’s delight a pair of RUDDY SHELDUCK flew in and landed in a field to give everyone excellent views.
Butterflies were plentiful, but there was nothing new except for a couple of PAINTED LADIES.
Clouds were beginning to bubble up by this time, as we drove back alongside the moat towards the main road. En route another MONTAGUES HARRIER, fifteen AVOCET, five GREENSHANK and a SPOTTED REDSHANK in summer plumage were registered.
We lunched in a taverna at Skala Kalloni, and really excellent it was too. Everyone had a fifteen minute wander around the harbour, and admired the local celebrity, Percy, the resident semi tame WHITE PELICAN who conducts a campaign of terror against the local dogs and cats, since he is twice the size of any of them.
After lunch we travelled some five or six miles along the north coast of the bay, to a spot just west of Skala Parakilon known as Devils Bridge. As the road rose above the coast it crossed the eponymous bridge on a hairpin bend, some two hundred feet above the water which could be seen at the bottom of a long steep slope through scrub covered fields, studded with rocks. A stream passed under the road, where several pairs of RED RUMPED SWALLOWS made their nests under the road bridge. Even here, Elaine took several minutes before she actually had a decent view of one. On the uphill side of the road was a very steep slope covered with small trees and scrub dominated by high rock faces and outcrops. A rough track up the hill led to a small chapel about a hundred foot above the road.
From the road we had good views of LESSER WHITETHROAT, NORTHERN WHEATEAR, and GREAT TIT, whilst yet another BLACK EARED WHEATEAR posed on the top of a rock.
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A yell of simultaneous triumph issued from the two leaders as they espied a superb male CRETZCHMAR’S BUNTING perched on a rock below the road. The bunting and its mate continued to fly back and forth across the road to everyone’s delight.
The party then set off up through the rocks towards the chapel, and rough going it was too. In fact, grabbing hold of people to save a fall became a continual feature of the climb. Everyone paused half way up to admire a MARSH FROG in a small cistern.
An extremely poor view of a female CINEREOUS BUNTING impressed no-one, since it was reluctant to settle for more than a second, but what with the masses of both flowers and butterflies, I was more than occupied, not knowing which way to look next. An ORPHEAN WARBLER did a repeat performance of the buntings elusiveness, not giving anyone much of a look. The chapel was beautifully kept both inside and out with a number of WALL GECKOES hanging onto the interior walls.
Butterflies were the usual small blue and brown jobs which did not settle for too long, but I managed to identify SMALL HEATH, SOOTY COPPER, SMALL COPPER, and a superb; for a Skipper, HUNGARIAN SKIPPER which had a beautiful hairy blue abdomen (?). Staggering back down the hill we saw our first BLUE ROCK THRUSH flying onto an outcrop. Three new birds for me at this spot but only one of them gave decent views.
Back to the bus we headed back east, and just past the village, we turned left and shortly alighted at two small pools fringed with a heavy growth of reeds and sedge.
Birds were at a premium, with only a couple of LITTLE RINGED PLOVER on a patch of mud, which quickly flew away, until Paul spotted a black and white flycatcher hawking from a tree. Although the two leaders were convinced it was not a Collared; the bird acted awkward and refused to show the nape of it’s neck, the thought being that it was a Semi Collared, a rare visitor to Lesvos. After about twenty minutes the bird finally capitulated and showed it’s nape. It was something of an anticlimax, since it proved to be a PIED FLYCATCHER, and in fact one of the few we saw. Following the sighting of a SHORT TOED EAGLE soaring over the adjacent mountain, the only birds in view were BARN SWALLOWS, RED RUMPED SWALLOWS and HOUSE MARTINS hunting over the pools. It was a pleasant spot though, and the sun was shining brightly, so everyone turned to butterfly hunting for the next ten minutes. The insects were in profusion, but were all of the small brown and blue variety. Lillian and Monica were particularly keen, and with everyone’s help we identified masses of COMMON BLUES and lesser numbers of ZEPHYR BLUE, BATON BLUE, and GREEN UNDERSIDE BLUE.
Arriving back at the hotel, a GREAT REED WARBLER was singing in a tamarisk across the road, but I was in too much of a hurry to get a drink and so missed it.
A wander around the pool produced nothing new, but in the hotel garden I caught what I at first thought was a strange female Meadow Brown, but I wasn’t happy with it, since it seemed much too big, and it wasn’t the right time of the year. Later research revealed it to be a GRAYLING, which are notorious for being very variable.
After a check list meeting, the usual excellent meal and a sociable evenings drink, I started to nod off in my chair in the bar, and so thought it was time for bed, to where I retired to at about ten o clock, utterly shattered. |