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Birding Madeira
Introduction
In October 2002 my family and I spent a fortnight on Madeira, the first week in the village of Amparo, near Ponta do Pargo on the western end of the island, and the second in the old town of Funchal. For the first week we had a rental car, whilst for the second we made use of public transport or walked. The weather was generally very pleasant throughout the fortnight, being cloudy and bright with plenty of sunshine and little wind. We had light rainfall on the day of arrival, but then no more precipitation until the afternoon of the 15th. On the 19th we had torrential rain for most of the day, backed by very strong westerly wind. It was still blowing quite strongly the next day, but the rain had gone and it was very sunny. Low cloud often covered the tops, only clearing properly on two days, the 12th and 14th.
Itinery
Daily diary
08/10 From our bedroom window next morning, a mixed flock of Blackbirds and Blackcaps foraged among the trees on the nearby hills, whilst a Sparrowhawk briefly tussled with a Kestrel. After breakfast we drove to Porto Moniz and the start of the lavada Ribeiro de Janela. This is a delightful walk deep into the heart of the island, with the laurel forests cloaking the towering mountainsides. Although it was rather dull and misty, this only added to the mystical atmosphere. At first birds were few and far between, but then we came across several flocks of Chaffinches, Firecrests and Blackcaps, as well as several Grey Wagtails and the odd Robin. The area is excellent for Long-toed Pigeons, and we saw 10 in total, with 4 together at one point. However, views were generally quite brief and sometimes distant. There were also several species of butterflies, including Clouded Yellow, Long-tailed Blue and Madeiran Speckled Wood. We returned to Porto Moniz and I seawatched for two hours from the public car park just above the tidal swimming pools. Many Cory’s headed west, along with 21 Little Shearwaters, some quite close in. Common, Arctic and Roseate Terns and 3 Turnstones added to the list. A magnificent Monarch butterfly was an unexpected find. 09/10 A mid-morning visit to the point produced a Northern Wheatear, at least 25 Greenfinches and a flock of over 20 Rock Sparrows. On the drive back into the village we came across a recently tilled field. Feeding on it was a mixed flock of finches, made up of about c30 Goldfinches, 60 Linnets and 60 Canaries. We then drove over to Prazeres and took the perilous path down to Pául do Mar. If you attempt this walk, make sure it is dry underfoot, as the stone path is VERY steep and slippery. On our way down a pair of Long-toed Pigeons flew up the valley whilst several Buzzards and Kestrels sailed overhead. Madeiran Wall Lizards basked in the sunshine and about 35 Rock Doves zipped around the cliffs. We had lunch in Pául do Mar and as we looked out of the windows a Short-eared Owl flew in off the sea! We took a taxi back up to Prazeres and then returned to Amparo. I popped down to the point finding a Grey Heron, 4 Northern Wheatears, a Common Starling and now over 25 Rock Sparrows. 10/10 A customary morning check on the point produced nothing new. The Rock Sparrow flock had dwindled to just 6 and there were only 4 Greenfinches present, the rest having flown inland. Today we decided to walk a lavada on the northern side, driving to Boaventura and hiking along number 27a. Highlights were 4 Long-toed Pigeons and a Pallid Swift. We then continued along the coast to São Jorge. On the river were a Grey Heron, a Little Egret and a pair of Mallard. I walked westwards a little way and spent an hour seawatching, noting about 150 Cory’s and 3 Little Shearwaters west. As we headed back home, a single Long-toed Pigeon flew over the town. As we drove through Amparo after dark, a Brown Rat ran across the road with an apple in its mouth. 11/10 Our morning walk from Amparo to Ponta do Pargo took us along a lovely little lavada above the village. We then dropped down to the point, had lunch at the mirador and returned along the back lanes. A flock of Plain Swifts racing along the cliff tops at the mirador contained a single Common Swift, whilst earlier I had seen a Pallid Swift at the lighthouse. There was no sign of any Rock Sparrows, but at least 5 Berthelot’s Pipits were flitting about. There had been a new influx of Greenfinches, there being 16 birds at the point, along with Goldfinches, Linnets and Canaries. A White Wagtail bobbed on the lawns of the mirador café and in the bramble hedgebanks of the surrounding fields we found at least 6 Spectacled Warblers, the adult males stunning in the sunshine. Butterflies too were out and about, including c15 Painted Ladies, c20 Clouded Yellows, 2 Long-tailed Blues, a Cleopatra and 3 Monarchs. I expected the latter to be trans-Atlantic migrants, and indeed the first monarchs to Madeira were. However, I discovered that the initial migrants were able to find the caterpillar foodplants and now Monarchs breed in small numbers across the island. In the afternoon I drove over to Porto Moniz for an afternoon seawatch. In two hours I counted only 75 Cory’s Shearwaters, but had 16 Little and a Sooty Shearwater, surprisingly perhaps the first record for Madeira. Near the village of Santa on the way back, a Long-toed Pigeon flew across the road, whilst at Ponta do Pargo just before dusk, a Northern Wheatear and 40 Rock Sparrows were present. At Amparo a small bat appeared, and in the twilight a Common Sandpiper called from the valley below. 12/10 A bright cloudless sky prompted a visit to the tops. Until now they had been veiled in low cloud, but this had cleared, leaving the peaks pristine in the morning sunshine. We drove onto Pául da Serra via Prazeres and walked along a mountain lavada. Plain Swifts were everywhere and I estimated at least 1600, along with 6+ Buzzards and 5+ Kestrels. In a small stream we came across many Perez’s Frogs and in the surrounding grassland Rabbits were common. After an enjoyable walk and picnic lunch, we decided to try the lavadas at Rabaçal. First though, we drove across the plateau, finding a raptor perched on a fence post. I suspected it was a ringtail Hen Harrier, and when it suddenly flew off its identity was confirmed. It appeared to be a first winter female judging by size and plumage and could be the first record for the main island. Only now as I write these notes, do I realise that it could just as easily have been a North American Marsh Hawk – if only I’d checked! At Rabaçal we ended up walking sections of all three main lavadas which connect with the site. On one we had a Long-toed Pigeon and on another a flock of at least 50 Firecrests. 13/10 Today we thought we would try a walk from Ponta do Pargo to Cabo and back – number 34 in the Sunflower guide. This follows an old road to Cabo and then a lavada on the return, the latter winding its way through extensive Eucalyptus stands. All the commoner birds were seen, including at least 10 Grey Wagtails in total, whilst a pair of Long-toed Pigeons were feeding in laurels in a garden about half way along the route to Cabo. This and my other records shows that Long-toed Pigeons are not restricted to the high laurel forests of the interior as might be implied in the literature. Very little was seen on the return journey, except butterflies. An afternoon visit to the point in brilliant sunshine revealed another Northern Wheatear and 18 Rock Sparrows, whilst a seawatch from the lighthouse produced only 4 Yellow-legged Gulls and a few Common Terns. However, a mixed school of 40+ Bottle-nosed and at least 5 Common Dolphins hunting for fish about a kilometre offshore more than compensated for the dearth of seabirds. As it was such a lovely evening we decided to have dinner at the mirador café. As the sun slowly sank below the horizon, a covey of 7 or 8 Red-legged Partridges suddenly shot past, confirming my audio record on the first day. Having not found any partridges until now, despite extensive searching, I was seriously beginning to doubt my hearing! 14/10 Half way through the holiday and time to switch bases. Fortunately the fine weather had continued through the night and it was a gloriously sunny morning. We drove over the tops onto Pául da Serra, via a flock of about 100 Yellow-legged Gulls, down into São Vicente and then along the north coast to São Jorge. From here back over the tops via Ribeiro Frio to Funchal. By this time the clouds had reappeared and the summit was bathed in swirling mists. We stopped for a comfort break in the open pine forests near Mont do Pereiro, finding a small flock of Siskins in the process. There were at least four handsome males, the other birds moving around too much to be sexed and aged accurately. In Funchal we eventually located our accommodation, a pleasant self-catering apartment in an historic Quinta overlooking the old town. Although rather distant from the harbour, through the telescope I was able to identify the gulls easily enough. 15/10 With the promise of rain, we spent the morning and early afternoon wandering around Funchal. In the harbour a flock of 150 Yellow-legged Gulls included 3 Lesser Black-backed Gulls, whilst the group of 15 or so Common Terns included an adult Roseate Tern in winter plumage. A Little Egret roosted out on one of the fishing boats, 3 Sanderlings scurried along the outer harbour wall and about 20 Turnstones foraged along the only bit of shoreline. Whilst sheltering under a tree from light rain up in the park gardens overlooking the harbour, I was surprised to find an adult winter Ring-billed Gull sitting on one of the enormous street lamps close by. There had been a report of one back in the summer, so I assumed this was the same bird hanging around. The rain set in for the afternoon, so we retired to our apartment and relaxed. 16/10 The previous day I had purchased a ticket for Porto Santo, so early next morning I strolled down to meet the ferry. It was still dark and at 07.15 as I walked through the old town a Barn Owl called twice from an area of derelict buildings. The ferry departed promptly and we were soon out at sea, the weather closing in a little and reducing visibility to about 500 metres. Cory’s Shearwaters were the first to appear, gliding effortlessly past the boat, then a Balearic Shearwater and then the first of 13 (presumed) Fea’s Petrels. Some came close to the ferry, giving excellent views as they cartwheeled against the wind. A distant Bulwer’s Petrel was the only one of the whole trip (we were too late in the season) whilst 2 Madeiran Petrels and 3 Great Skuas were noted shortly before closing in on Porto Santo. Cetaceans included a pod of about 30 dolphins a few minutes out of Funchal and 25 Short-finned Pilot Whales. Arriving in Porto Santo the weather cleared and it became a hot sunny day. I walked around the harbour until I was clear of the buildings and fences and then climbed straight up into the hills. From here over to Tanque pond near the airport then along the airport perimeter and up past the wind turbines. A short walk over to the second pond on the island and then a hike up to the far end and the final pond. Unfortunately this was virtually dry and the disappointment was all the more heartfelt with the long tiring walk back to the harbour. I reckon on 21 km covered. Despite the dearth of birds at pond three, I did see some good birds. Spanish Sparrows and Rock Sparrows were common, as were Canaries. I recorded totals of 24 Hoopoes, c75 Berthelot’s Pipits, 50 Plain Swifts, c15 Kestrels, 10 Buzzards, 5 Blackcaps and 3 Spectacled Warblers. Migrants included 5 Wheatears and a Willow Warbler. At Tanque pond there were 6 waders of 6 species, including a Greenshank, a Common Snipe, a Dunlin, a juvenile Little Stint, a juvenile Curlew Sandpiper and a superb juvenile White-rumped Sandpiper, the latter photographed at quite close range. A Little Egret, 3 Coot, a pair of Moorhens with one chick and a female Pintail added to the excitement at this small pool. The second pond held a single Moorhen with nothing on the third, although two Whimbrels flew over me on the walk back. Perez’s Frogs were common at Tanque and a vole of some kind shot across my path. The return ferry crossing was not so interesting, although 8 presumed Fea’s Petrels were noted, along with hundreds of distant Cory’s Shearwaters near the Desertas Islands. 17/10 After yesterday’s exploits, I spent the day with my family on a visit to the Monte Palace Gardens. We took the new cable car to the top and had lunch overlooking the city. The weather was gorgeous and the gardens delightful. Commoner species were in good numbers and the two bird feeders had attracted 4 Greenfinches. A tame female Ringed Teal graced the ornamental ponds, and I assumed it was put there along with two Mute Swans. We returned via a traditional sledge ride, expensive but worth the experience. 18/10 Another day in Funchal, with an early afternoon stroll out to Ponta da Cruz. The harbour yielded over 800 Yellow-legged Gulls and the same Roseate Tern with the Commons. At the point a 45 minute seawatch revealed very little, just 20 Cory’s Shearwaters, 10 Common Terns and another Roseate. An immature female Sparrowhawk circled over the road on our walk back into Funchal, only the second of the trip since the first, brief sighting at Amparo. Coincidentally another immature female appeared over our Quinta later in the day and then amazingly an immature male was spotted circling over Boa Vista – three in one day! 19/10 Apparently no holiday to Madeira is complete without a visit to São Lourenco, so today we took a bus out to the headland. At first it was a nice sunny morning, but as we drew near the weather took a serious turn for the worse and ten minutes into our walk it became very windy with torrential rain. We had to turn back, seeing only a few Berthelot’s Pipits, 2 Rock Sparrows, c10 Canaries and tantalisingly at least 3 Wheatears. Unfortunately we had just missed the returning bus and now had a two hour wait for the next one! Luckily a local man took pity on us and gave us a lift into Caniçal where we took shelter in a café bar. I braved the storm just once to check the sea, finding 5 Sandwich Terns fishing close inshore. Rather than wait for the bus we took a taxi back to Funchal, the rain lashing down all the way. It only eased towards dusk, when I spotted the Ring-billed Gull flying around the harbour. 20/10 Our last full day, so I made the most of it by walking down to the end of the outer harbour wall for an early morning seawatch. After the westerly storm of the previous day I had high hopes, but these were soon dashed when I counted only 150 Cory’s Shearwaters, c350 Yellow-legged Gulls and the same 10 Common Terns. However, the adult Roseate Tern had been joined by an immature and I had 1-2 Pomarine Skuas distantly offshore.
The best bird I’d seen earlier – an immature Black-crowned Night-heron flying around the promenade trees in the centre of the town! I failed to locate it perched up and looking back, I now wonder if it too was of the North American race.
Next morning we packed, met our taxi and drove to the airport for the return flight home. I looked for birds from the viewing balcony, but it faced the runway and apart from several distant Buzzards and Plain Swifts I saw nothing else.
I thoroughly commend Madeira to you, although by choice I would only spend a week here. However, this was a family holiday rather than a birding trip, so perhaps I didn’t do so badly after all!
Fea’s Petrel Pterodroma feae
Bulwer’s Petrel Bulweri bulweri
Cory’s Shearwater Calonectris diomedea
Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
Balearic Shearwater Puffinus mauretanicus
Little Shearwater Puffinus assimilis
Madeiran Storm Petrel Oceanodroma castro
Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Pintail Anas acuta
Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus granti
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo harterti
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Coot Fulica atra
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fusicollis
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Great Skua Stercorarius skua
Pomarine Skua Stercorarius pomarinus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Ring-billed Gull Larus delawarensis
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis atlantis
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Roseate Tern Sterna dougalli
Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea
Rock Dove Columba livia
Long-toed Pigeon Columba trocaz
Barn Owl Tyto alba
Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus
Plain Swift Apus unicolor
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
Berthelot’s Pipit Anthus bertolotii
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea schmitzi
White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba
Robin Erithacus rubecula
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Blackbird Turdus merula cabreae
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata bella
Blackcap Sylvia atricappila obscura
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Firecrest Regulus ignicappilus maderensis
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia maderensis
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs maderensis
Canary Serinus canaria canaria
Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis parva
Siskin Carduelis spinus
Linnet Carduelis cannabina nana
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Andy Warren
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