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WEDNESDAY 28 APRIL DAY 4
A quick turn around the pool produced virtually no change from the previous day except for a steady decline in bird numbers, the only addition being a lone SEDGE WARBLER. Some research in the books on the subject of last nights “Meadow Brown” ensued, since they are not on the wing until June. My studies concluded it must have been the east European form of the Grayling, which left me feeling a bit happier. Seeing some later in the week confirmed this.
Migration seemed to be at very low ebb, so our leaders decided on the trip over the mountains to Molyvos, a spectacular run, but not quite in the class of the Sigri run, on a subsequent occasion.
We loaded into the buses, the CB radios were tested, and then Paul’s bus would not start. “Does anyone know anything about cars”, came the cry. Since no one else volunteered, I said I’d have a look. Whilst Paul rushed off to summon the help of Bill, the hotel manager, Capt. Phil, Phil H. and myself exposed the engine; no easy task.
A smell of petrol indicated auto choke malfunction, so I wiped everything, screwed down the plugs, dropped the bonnet, and said to Capt. Phil, “Go on, it will start now”.
Much to my surprise; it did, and I was the hero of the hour. Richard promptly went into a hysterical vituperative diatribe on automatic chokes and the companies that fitted them. He did this kind of thing occasionally, waking up and going into a wobbler.
We stopped at the pool in order for the late sleepers to see the Sedge Warbler, and found a COMMON TERN and a small flock of LITTTLE RINGED PLOVER had also arrived. We also had an excellent close view of a WATER RAIL.
Climbing up through the woods on the Molyvos road we saw little except for BLACKBIRD, CRESTED LARK, CORN BUNTING and BLACK HEADED BUNTING, until whilst descending through a gorge, Paul came on to the radio with the cry of “ Raptors overhead”. Screeching to a halt in a convenient lay by, we all tumbled out of the buses just in time to see a BONELLIS EAGLE circle, and disappear towards the south. Five SHORT TOED EAGLES stayed around however circling lower and lower, giving us our best views of the week of this species. We crossed the road into a tiny quarry, which contained a small, but very deep pool, surrounded by six foot “cliffs”. On the rocks dropping in to the pool were some very peculiar bright red flowers with white petal tips, and no leaves. After some research later in the week Paul determined that they were called CYTICUS. Lillian clambered down to the edge of the pool for a closer look and Capt. Phil had to rescue her. Her “friend” Nancy said, “Silly old fool, she’s always doing stupid things like that”. A comment that we were to remember later in the week. This comment led to some verbal aggravation between the two elderly ladies.
Our botanist; Paul also pointed out some LOOSE FLOWERED ORCHIDS, and some other orchids that could not be identified. Whilst in the clearing we also registered NIGHTINGALE, CHAFFINCH, and CHIFF CHAFF, as well as a COMMON JAY, with the diagnostic white face of the eastern race. To add variety a BLACK STORK, circled overhead at a low altitude affording excellent views.
Butterflies were of the small blue/brown varieties; the only one identified being a SMALL HEATH.
A mile or so further on Paul stopped to fill up with fuel, and whilst we waited for him we spotted two males and a female WOODCHAT SHRIKE and had a super close view of a male CIRL BUNTING.
As we started the descent into Molyvos, with its huge Turkish castle dominating the town, we stopped at a convenient lay by, absolutely awash with FIELD MARIGOLDS to be joined by another party of birders. This being the best site for RUPPELS WARBLER, which we saw almost immediately on the rocks dropping down beneath us to the sea. On the rocks and scrub below, we also saw, as well as more RUPPEL’S WARBLER, GREAT TIT, BLACK HEADED BUNTING, LINNET, a superb male LESSER GREY SHRIKE, and a BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, of the western race as opposed to the more common eastern race. We then headed for a little way up a short steep track on the other side of the road through rocks and scrub where we spotted JAY, CRETZCHMARS BUNTING, BLUE TIT and RED RUMPED SWALLOW; Elaine was getting tired of them by now, GREAT TIT, BLUE ROCK THRUSH, and excellent views of a male ORPHEAN WARBLER. I also discovered another example of the strange red plant Citicus. Ed then espied a male ORTOLAN BUNTING perched on a bush. He then went one better noticing a strange looking falcon flying purposefully above us at approx. forty feet up. This was immediately identified as ELEANORAS FALCON, the only one we were to see. This species always appears to have an angular “cranked” shape, rather like the flight illustrations of Magnificent Frigate Bird, not that I’ve ever seen one in the flesh.
We descended to the road; greeting a couple from our hotel, who had got there under their own steam, and spent a little while taking photos of the spectacular view.
Driving through the narrow streets of Molyvos we then took to a narrow unmade road winding eastwards along the coast, with the cliffs and sea, overlooking Turkey on one side, and a scrub covered rising mountainside on the other.
The bus screeched to a stop, as Capt. Phil spotted a MASKED SHRIKE perched in a nearby tree. It was a beautiful bird, which the illustrations did not do justice to. Just at that moment Paul, who had disappeared out of sight, came on the intercom to say they had also spotted a MASKED SHRIKE. At the same spot we also saw yet another BLACK EARED WHEATEAR. We shortly caught Paul up and had a short stay in a narrow valley, where we saw LITTLE OWL, perched on the roof of a barn,
another MASKED SHRIKE, two TURTLE DOVES and a poorly seen SOMBRE TIT, it could have been anything to me. After identifying a WHINCHAT, and WALL and GRAYLING butterflies, we travelled on.
Another halt in a narrow wooded valley sloping down to the sea was much more productive. I missed another poorly seen SOMBRE TIT; which more resembled a black and white flash than a bird, but I did see CRETZCHMARS BUNTING, TURTLE DOVE, JAY, NIGHTINGALE, NORTHERN WHEATEAR several BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, a SHAG flying along the sea, two COMMON BUZZARDS, a KESTREL and a SPARROW HAWK. Despite the best efforts of our experts, they could not make anything more exotic of the latter two. More excitement greeted good views of a male ORTOLAN BUNTING and a beautiful male RED BACKED SHRIKE, which posed for several minutes on top of a bush. To top off an excellent half hour a gorgeously coloured male SUB ALPINE WARBLER also perched on the top of a nearby rock for a few minutes.
Another, or the same SOMBRE TIT upheld this species elusive reputation, with a quick flash past, seen only by the two Phil’s. Butterflies at this spot were plentiful but were all WALL, SMALL HEATH and GRAYLING.
We continued east seeing several BLACK HEADED BUNTINGS and BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, as well as large numbers of YELLOW LEGGED GULLS as the road descended and ran along the edge of the sea. At one point we passed some bubbling hot springs at the side of the road, near the village of Skala Skiminias; totally hemmed in by mountains, where we had an excellent taverna lunch. This was a wonderful picturesque spot with one drawback. I normally like cats, but this place was infested with them squabbling, fighting and scrounging. At least they looked fairly well fed and respectable, but we were warned not to encourage them. As we ate outside the taverna we observed ATLANTIC BOTTLE NOSED DOLPHINS, COMMON TERNS, SHAG, and large numbers of YELLOW LEGGED GULL, BARN SWALLOW, and HOUSE MARTIN, as well as a passing ORANGE TIP butterfly.
Despite the isolation of this village, I also managed to buy a map of the island.
Groaning with a sumptuous Greek lunch together with the attendant jugs of wine, we turned inland, climbing ever higher into the mountains, from the bus seeing several BLACK EARED WHEATEAR and BLACK HEADED BUNTING (becoming boring).
Of somewhat more interest were SHORT TOED EAGLE and CRETZCHMARS BUNTING, also seen from the bus.
We stopped at the roads highest Trig. Point: (Greek version), two thousand five hundred feet up, on the side of a scrub grown mountain, overlooking a plunging vista of olive groves and the obligatory small, well kept chapel. The first call from Paul, was for a Festoon butterfly, which I missed, closely followed by COMMON BUZZARD, CRETZCHMARS BUNTING, a HOOPOE, which I missed, several CHAFFINCH, TURTLE DOVE and BLUE AND GREAT TIT, whilst a BLUE ROCK THRUSH posed on it’s rock above the road, and a RAVEN glided by overhead. Paul who had gone wandering up the road to look at an overhanging crag shouted and beckoned. Those of us who could run did; even I had a passably good attempt, but by the time we arrived the SOMBRE TIT was back in high-speed mode as a poorly glimpsed flash between the trees. After ten minutes of sheer persistence the bird gave up and sat quietly on a branch for us all to see.
As we continued up the road towards the crag; it followed us. I fully expected it to perch on someone’s shoulder any minute. It was yet another bird which the illustrations did not do justice to.
Arrival at the crag revealed a number of CRAG MARTINS flying around. As we returned to the bus the inevitable BLACK EARED WHEATEAR and BLACK HEADED BUNTING were in evidence, whilst at least three SOMBRE TITS sat on bushes around the bus. Whilst the others had a look in the chapel, Paul and myself pursued a strange looking, weak fluttering butterfly, which proved to be a NETTLE TREE BUTTERFLY. Whilst we were thus engaged, many of the party were admiring yet another HOOPOE which I also missed, whilst Phil and Marion tracked down another male CRETZCHMARS BUNTING in a nearby olive tree.
Proceeding westwards once more, another stop in a narrow wooded valley with a prominent rock face produced HOOPOE, which I missed yet again, NIGHTINGALE, GOLDFINCH, CIRL BUNTING, BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, BLACK HEADED BUNTING, and CRETZCHMARS BUNTING.
Elaine earned a round of applause when she discovered an ROCK NUTHATCH entering it’s huge nest built into the rock face. Everyone had prolonged good views of this species. This was followed by good close views of another male SUB ALPINE WARBLER, and would you believe it, two more SOMBRE TITS.
Capt. Phil then got his ‘scope onto an enormous BALKAN LIZARD, jet black and about eighteen inches long, posing on a rock.
The run home was uneventful, everyone was very hot and tired, and all the birds seemed to have gone to ground. Some amusement was had; trying to force our way through the streets of Stipsi, which were about six inches wider than the buses.
I decided to test the water in the hotel swimming pool, which was somewhat cold, despite the heat of the day. I managed six lengths; but Elaine, the only other occupant managed over thirty, and stayed in much longer than I did.
As it was Phil and Marion Hodgson’s eleventh wedding anniversary, we had all signed a card upon which Paul had drawn a superb Red Rumped Swallow. Some of C.F Tunnicliffe’s talent had obviously rubbed off on him.
Following the usual excellent meal some drinking ensued, whilst the more earnest members went for a pretty fruitless walk around the pond.
On a pre breakfast walk around the pool, I was told that a MARSH HARRIER
had visited a few minutes previously, and caused utter chaos among the residents. Another panic ensued for which I could see no reason, but some of the perambulating birders saw a HOBBY make a low pass. A third panic produced two RED FOOTED FALCONS, which I also did not see. Why three panics in fifteen minutes, when the rest of the week didn’t produce any. At least, not while we were there.
The usual residents of the pond had been joined by seven LITTLE STINT, as well as a CETTIS WARBLER and a LITTLE BITTERN, as well as the usual large flock of birders. On the basis of this movement minimal though it was, our leaders decided to
make the long ,eighteen mile journey to the usual migration hot spots; Ipsilou Monastery , and the coastal village of Sigri, on the extreme eastern point. I refer to the journey as long, because of the tortuous road, the hairpin bends and the hills, climbing to twenty five hundred feet at one point.
Paul’s bus refused to start again, so I did a repeat performance of my car expert act. Once again, it worked, and I became the subject of some awe, not to mention gratitude.
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Various short stops along the mountainous, if thickly wooded road, produced a superb LONG LEGGED BUZZARD, soaring below the skyline, giving excellent views; another MASKED SHRIKE which I did not see, and the inevitable BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, and BLACK HEADED BUNTING; as well as NIGHTINGALE, GREAT TIT, CIRL BUNTING, and yes, another SOMBRE TIT, and WOODCHAT SHRIKE.
A descent down the aptly named Grand Canyon, produced vast numbers of singing NIGHTINGALE, as well as a number of WOODCHAT SHRIKE and a couple of BLUE ROCK THRUSH.
At the bottom of a valley where the road crossed a stream near the village of Tzithra, we had a short stop, when Stan spotted a MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER, in an olive grove. The bird was very nervy and quickly departed without anyone having very good views. The grove did however produce our first sight of a PERSIAN SQUIRREL, a most attractive creature, which is probably as big a nuisance as our own. Whilst I was pursuing what turned out to be a PAINTED LADY butterfly, Ed had found both GREY WAGTAIL and COLLARED FLYCATCHER along the stream bed, together with hugh numbers of EUROPEAN POND TERRAPIN. As we returned to the buses we identified NIGHTINGALE, GREAT TIT, SWIFT, and a flying WOODLARK, which baffled everyone for a few moments.
We began to climb steeply once again, and as we gained height, the country became more barren, with more rocks and only the occasional isolated grove of trees. We shortly saw Ipsilou Monastery perched high on an exposed crag three hundred feet above the road. The access road up to the monastery was dreadful; averaging one in four, unmade, full of large holes and ruts with towering rock faces on one side, vertical drops on the other, and no barriers. We were the first arrivals of the morning, but were soon joined by other birders.
The most productive viewing point was on the edge of an almost vertical two hundred foot cliff studded with occasional stunted trees, with the monastery perched fifty feet above us. The whole area was alive with butterflies, but PAINTED LADY, SMALL HEATH, COMMON BLUE, SMALL COPPER, and the occasional GRAYLING was about all I could manage.
The birds were however the stars, with COMMON and ALPINE SWIFTS, RED RUMPED SWALLOWS, and HOUSE MARTINS zooming overhead. A BLUE ROCK THRUSH posing on a crag. ROCK SPARROW perched in on of the monastery window embrasures, and a COLLARED FLYCATCHER flitting about in the rocks. A LONG LEGGED BUZZARD glided close below us, giving superlative views from about thirty feet away. We discovered that the bird had its nest on a nearby inaccessible crag where both male and female displayed and soared close by for the whole time we were there. Probably the best bird moments of the holiday.
Some of the ladies decided to see if the monks would let us into the abbey church, permission for which was not always forthcoming. As we slogged up to the hill to the gate we saw BLACK EARED WHEATEAR,(big deal), and more of the usual butterflies. The monks although not communicative, were quite amenable to our presence, so in we went. There was a beautiful shady courtyard, where the monks were watering the trees and flowers.
The abbey church although small was sumptuously decorated, and quite beautiful. We all put our loose change in the offertory box, or it’s Greek Orthodox equivalent. In the entrance arch were several lumps of petrified trees which was almost like rock.
As we arrived back with the others, we received the disturbing news that we had missed a male CINEREOUS BUNTING perched on one of the rocks, plus a HOOPOE, which of course I did not see.
A few minutes later I also could not see a GOLDEN ORIOLE, which everyone else saw. How anyone could not see something like a Golden Oriole, I do not know.
I then had a rather poor view of what I thought was an EASTERN FESTOON butterfly. One of the other birding parties confirmed this. They had also seen a False Apollo, which I missed.
In the meantime Elaine did her party piece and found an ROCK NUTHATCH scurrying about among the rocks. In between missing CRAG MARTIN and ROCK THRUSH, I at last caught up with the male CINEREOUS BUNTING, thanks to Ed’s persistence in looking for it.
We were all getting extremely hungry thanks to the excitement and the crisp mountain air, so we headed back down the mountain heading for Sigri. The road wound down the mountain in a series of hairpin bends and as altitude was lost the trees reappeared and the country became more verdant. At one point Paul stopped his bus to look at a Little Owl eating a snake, but unfortunately it was close to a military base, and the soldiers moved them on. As we descended to the coast we saw a WOODLARK perched on a wire, LONG LEGGED BUZZARD; as usual, very obliging, RED BACKED SHRIKE, RED FOOTED FALCON, and a number of COMMON KESTRELS, which were carefully examined, since this area was a stronghold of Lesser Kestrel.
At the small fishing village of Sigri, we had the usual magnificent Greek meal in a taverna . The proprietor put his only British C.D onto the player for us; Tom Jones would you believe, but we protested and he was delighted when we told him that we preferred Greek traditional music, so that is what we got.
Following the meal we caught up on Sigri’s bird specialty. It is the only place on the island where JACKDAW is found.
Setting off northwards, we took a rough road close to the coast, with small fields, olive groves and small stands of stunted trees and bushes.
After only a short distance the lead vehicle disturbed a flock of approx. fifty BLACK HEADED BUNTING, common enough, but not in such numbers. A small pond on the left produced a couple of waders, but they turned out to be the usual WOOD SANDPIPER, much the commonest wader on the island.
After parking the buses, the party set off to walk along the track northwards. We quickly registered four WOODCHAT SHRIKE, five RED BACKED SHRIKE, WHITETHROAT, GREAT TIT, when I spotted a GOLDEN ORIOLE. This quickly turned into six Golden Orioles, and everyone enjoyed good views. A TREE PIPIT made a change, quickly followed by a WHINCHAT, LINNET, and a bright male ORPHEAN WARBLER. COLLARED FLYCATCHER, and PIED FLYCATCHER, proving that there was some active migration.
Birds were now being seen continually consisting of large numbers of GOLDFINCH, several COLLARED FLYCATCHER and MASKED SHRIKE, SPOTTED FLYCATCHER, TURTLE DOVE, and a male BLACKCAP spotted by Robin; which proved most elusive although we finally got views of a kind.
As we returned LONG LEGGED BUZZARD, and COMMON KESTREL soared above, whilst a flock of twenty or so HOUSE MARTINS moved inland from the coast. Two more Kestrels appeared overhead, and to everyone’s delight the long central tail feathers proved them to be LESSER KESTREL. BLUE TIT and a couple of WOODCHAT SHRIKE were noted, and a party of half a dozen BEE EATER flew inland, low above our heads calling continually. Butterflies in the area in addition to the usual species bought us both BATH WHITE and SMALL BATH WHITE.
The party took a short cut towards the beach whilst our leaders went to fetch the buses. This area produced a number of CLOUDED YELLOW butterflies, then at a bend in the track a small bird exploded in front of us and proceeded to bounce up and down as though it was on elastic. No one knew what it was, although I felt that it’s action looked familiar. When the buses arrived, the leaders quickly identified it as a FAN TAILED WARBLER or known in some quarters as ZITTING CISTICOLA, which obligingly settled on the top of a thistle to allow ‘scope views.
We arrived at a beach consisting of shingle and dominated by a huge rock. On the inland side was a marsh and a series of small pools. Everyone moved cautiously and soon tracked down a couple of TAWNY PIPITS and a SHORT TOED LARK on the beach. Whilst I had a look at the marsh, the rest set up the telescopes for a short sea watch. I had YELLOW WAGTAIL and RED THROATED PIPIT whilst the others had COREYS SHEARWATER. This of course caught my interest, despite my dislike of sea watching, and Capt. Phil soon found one for me. There were vast numbers of medium sized birds flying north to south some way out at sea, but no one could figure what they were, despite the optical equipment available.
A move to the marsh then ensued, producing RED THROATED PIPIT, perched in a tree, no less than seven RED FOOTED FALCON floating about, REED WARBLER, BLACK EARED WHEATEAR, MARSH HARRIER, GREY HERON, SHAG, and a party of twenty SAND MARTIN heading inland from the sea, as well as an obliging WATER RAIL and LITTLE BITTERN.
Utterly shattered, we headed east for home, at one point being shadowed closely by the military for several miles. The road back past Ipsilou produced several Kestrels; which could not be properly identified although Phil thought they were probably Lesser, and a number of RED FOOTED FALCONS perched on various wires.
Not far past Ipsilou, we stopped at a road junction, with a vista of barren cotton grass and rocks. This was apparently the only very restricted area where ISABELLINE WHEATEAR breed on the island. We quickly found three or four of this very enigmatic species, and wondered what was so special about this tiny patch of mountain that was any different to many other square miles of exactly similar mountain up the road. Maureen asked the inevitable question as to why they are called Isabelline..
Paul explained that they and other birds were named after one of the French Queen Isabella, who swore that she would not change her knickers (his words), until the current war ended. The war lasted fifty years.
Hence, some species, which have a generally pale, colourless and grubby appearance, have been named Isabelline, since they resemble the colour of her underwear when at last she changed them. I had heard the story before, and it is apparently based on fact. More WOODCHAT SHRIKE, as well as the usual species was spotted on the way home, as were one or two SHORT TOED EAGLE and COMMON BUZZARD. A call on the intercom from Paul who was behind us warned of two low flying ALPINE SWIFTS about to overtake, which they duly did. An emergency stop was made at one point , when Phil. and I saw a MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER, pecking at something in the road. It quickly flew away however before anyone else could see it.
I asked my inevitable silly question as to how he knew what species of woodpecker we were seeing when we never managed a decent view of any of them. The reply was the inevitable one: Middle Spotted is the only species that occurs on the island.
We arrived back shattered for the usual hearty meal, after which Paul suggested he should buy me one or two drinks for sorting out the bus problems. He duly did, and I bought him one, and he bought me one etc etc, and then we got onto the Metaxa brandy, and I nearly fell into the pool on the way to bed.
In view of yesterdays extremely warm weather; I resolved to give everyone a thrill, and wear shorts, thin leg or not.
Breakfast over we joined the buses; and would you believe it, no one noticed , or were too disgusted to make any comment.
A slow pass of the pool confirmed what the pre breakfast walkers had already told us. That there was nothing new and less of what there was.
We proceeded to the East River estuary with its salt marshes and mud flats, where we found a lot of changes. As the better equipped among us set up the ‘scopes, the birding couple from the hotel arrived pushing hired bikes. Phil H told them all the wonders that we had seen, obviously designed to wind them up, but the only effect was that they asked for details of Ornitholidays, since there is no doubt that you see much more than on your own.
Breeding STONE CURLEW were the first sighting, with four birds in view; six GREY HERON hung about fishing, whilst a number of KENTISH PLOVER scurried about on the mud. Capt. Phil then spotted a COMMON PRATINCOLE standing in the salt marsh. It took some finding, but eventually everyone had a good view.
The Citrine Wagtail seen previously, had however moved on, on the same day that we saw it.
At this point Monica noticed that I was wearing shorts and drew everyone’s attention to it.
A flock of small waders were dashing about; which eventually proved to be LITTLE STINT, twenty-nine of them. Large numbers of HOUSE and SAND MARTIN were flying around, and one of them seemed to have a different style as well as a lower gear and a short tail. This puzzled even the leaders until it landed, when it was evident that it was a WOODLARK. This was the third occasion that a Woodlark had caused consternation by untypical behaviour and habitat.
The party then headed for the Potamia valley; about five miles away, which was the stronghold of Olive Tree Warbler. These are however an extremely late arrival, and no one seemed to have seen one as yet. En route we saw the usual common species, as well as two WOODCHAT SHRIKE, and a superb view of a CETTIS WARBLER, which perched on a bush immediately outside the bus window, and sang, or rather chattered it’s little heart out. In addition we saw a number of TURTLE DOVES and several more PERSIAN SQUIRRELS.
We alighted from the buses in the valley, which was a really beautiful place, with a small river in the bottom and rising either side to quite lofty craggy mountains sweeping up to around two thousand feet. Olives and other trees went up to around the thousand foot mark, with barren rock and grass above that. The whole valley was awash with wild flowers and alive with butterflies and bird song. As we walked along a track up the valley we saw BLACKBIRD, BLUE TIT, COMMON BUZZARD, NIGHTINGALE, CHAFFINCH, JAY, and soaring BACK STORK and SHORT TOED EAGLE. Everyone admired a male SUBALPINE WARBLER, but no Olive Tree Warbler could be heard. Stan thought he’d heard one and even half convinced the leaders, but when the bird was finally tracked down, it turned out to be an ORPHEAN WARBLER. Butterflies were prolific, and we recorded COMMON BLUE, SMALL HEATH, BATON BLUE, SMALL COPPER, ORANGE TIP, and much more interesting TWIN SPOT FRITILLARY, which of course had the reference books flapping. At least it had the grace to stay still whilst we identified it. Two BROWN ARGUS, a much prettier butterfly than the books imply, and at last several well-seen EASTERN FESTOONS. Following a team photograph; we returned to the buses somewhat disconsolate, following another failure, which never did get recorded before we left the island. An old wizened man appeared on a donkey riding side saddle with two loaded panniers, and Marion asked permission to take his photograph, to which he agreed. It seems that the Lesbian people ride all livestock sidesaddle; in fact we never saw them riding any other way. As we prepared to board we spotted two RED FOOTED FALCONS and an ROCK NUTHATCH. As we left, our friends from the hotel with the bikes arrived and when they reported later, they actually saw less than us.
We then preceded to the rather inaptly named Inland Lake, which was an enormous reed bed surrounding a smallish pool, and a famous spot for rails and crakes.
Apart from several SWALLOWTAIL butterflies, we recorded some well seen LITTLE BITTERN, an as usual poorly seen MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER together with CETTIS WARBLER, MOORHEN, NIGHT HERON, YELLOW WAGTAIL, SWIFT, soaring LONG LEGGED BUZZARD and COMMON BUZZARD, as well as literally hundreds of terrapins and marsh frogs.
All of the party but myself saw a HOOPOE, which I as usual missed, since I was chasing butterflies at the time.
An uneventful trip to Skala Kallonis ensued, followed by a superb Greek lunch at the usual village taverna, after which we headed back to the East River flood bank. By this time of the month, the weather had settled to very hot and dry, which suited the butterflies but not the birds; and things were beginning to get a bit desperate birdwise, at least by Lesbian standards.
It was also getting very hot; and everyone was suffering some effects of sunburn, particularly me, and hats became the order of the day.
We drove all the way along the bank to the main road, during the course of which we saw; LITTLE EGRET, SQUACCO HERON, COMMON TERN, COMMON KESTREL, LITTLE RINGED PLOVER, BLACK HEADED BUNTING, SPANISH SPARROW, SEDGE WARBLER, BLACK HEADED WAGTAIL and TURTLE DOVE. We crossed the main road and drove along the river track allegedly looking for Roller and Rufous Bush Chat, both of which had been seen in this locality earlier in the week. We alighted across the river from a twenty-foot rock face, which was overlooked by an unoccupied bird watching hide.
The reason for the hide was self evident, since it overlooked the nest of an ROCK NUTHATCH, which presented us with excellent views. Seven RAVENS then flew low overhead and hung about for some time. Most of the group then saw a new bird for the holiday in the shape of a COMMON STARLING, which I was not too upset to miss. Ed then spotted two RED BACKED SHRIKE, which occupied everyone for some time, followed by male and female CIRL BUNTING and the obligatory BLACK EARED WHEATEAR and BLACK HEADED BUNTING.
Whilst I was chasing an EASTERN FESTOON BUTTERFLY; the rest had good views of HOOPOE, which, once again of course, I missed. A feature of this part of the river was the hysterical noises that the MARSH FROGS were making, but there no sign of what we were looking for.
Then we proceeded back onto the perimeter road around the salt pans, which produced eleven AVOCETS, one hundred and eight GREATER FLAMINGO still distant; several LITTLE TERN, a spectacular WHITE WINGED BLACK TERN, two RUDDY SHELDUCK, seven LITTLE EGRET, eight BLACK WINGED STILT, twenty eight WOOD SANDPIPER, and four TEMMINCKS STINT in the moat, only a few yards away. This cheered us up since it was a new bird for most people.
Butterflies during this stop featured all the usual common species plus PAINTED LADY, and EASTERN FESTOON. At the point where the main moat turned sharp left, we had another stop when a magnificent BLACK STORK landed in the moat a few yards away and commenced to feed, accompanied by two more TEMMINCKS STINT and a COMMON SANDPIPER. Due to the proximity of the birds, we daren’t move. This caused some agro with a photographer who came driving up at high speed, with squealing brakes, which disturbed the birds, then promptly blamed us for parking too close. He was told to go away; in Russian, at least the words ended in ov.
Apparently there is a lot of conflict between birders and photographers on Lesvos, the latter always thinking that they’ve got the first priority, and it was made quite obvious, with little communication between the two parties.
Our attention was then attracted by a juvenile female MONTAGU’S HARRIER, or was it. Phil thought it was a Pallid Harrier; and Paul thought Montagu’s, but neither was completely satisfied. Despite fairly good views, the bird eventually moved further away and finally disappeared. It seems identification of juveniles of these two species is extremely difficult, and even examination of the various field guides at the end of the day ; did not satisfactorily settle the matter, so we put it down as a Montagu’s. I was getting desperate for a new bird by now, and though I did not know it at the time was not to see another.
We then drove to the dodgy cattle grid referred to earlier, and decided that it would not be wise to take the buses across, so we proceeded on foot. As we discussed the matter we identified COMMON BEE EATER, three RED THROATED PIPITS, two RUDDY SHELDUCK, as well as the inevitable BLACK HEADED BUNTING and
BLACK- EARED WHEATEAR. Paul spotted a distant Hoopoe, but I didn’t even try to see it, and neither did anyone else. The above Bee-eater was still perched on the same post, and I’m convinced that both the Pipits and the Ruddy Shelduck were the same ones that we saw in this spot some days previously.
We turned to follow the coast, which was approximately two hundred yard away beyond some sandy scrubland. Paul told us that a disused loading dock was normally a favourite spot for Rufous Bush Chat, a species that we were all keen to see. A smallish tail flirting bird momentarily appeared getting everyone very excited, but when we tracked it down, it turned out to be a NORTHERN WHEATEAR. As we worked our way around the back of the saltpans, we saw a large colony of HOUSE SPARROWS breeding on the Salt Companies machinery, alongside the salt mountain. A feature of this walk was the columns of ants crossing the sandy track. Without seeing many birds or butterflies, we eventually came to a bridge crossing the main outlet channel from the saltpans. This was a haunt of both COMMON and RED RUMPED SWALLOWS, which dashed under the bridge hawking for insects. A section of marshy ground was crossed bringing us to the fence around the salt pans. At this spot we admired two GREAT WHITE EGRET, a flock of twenty four GLOSSY IBIS, feeding on the mud, and a number of WHINCHATS perched on the fence. At this point Paul spotted a distant OSPREY. Closer at hand we identified six SHORT TOED LARK, ten WHITE WINGED BLACK TERN, two COMMON TERNS and KENTISH PLOVER, as well as thirty five LITTLE STINT.
Things were very quiet by now; birdwise, and it had got very hot. On the walk back to the bus the one bright spot was a BATH WHITE butterfly perched on a flower.
The journey back appeared almost birdless as the heat really took a grip. Due to an early arrival back at the hotel, many of the keener types went for a walk around the pond. Although not one of the latter I decided to do a lone circuit of the pond mainly for the exercise. Just for a change I did the circuit clockwise, but by the time I had got through the village, I was beginning to regret it. I was getting very hot, tired, and dehydrated. Wildlife was almost non-existent, the most exciting sighting being a couple of DICE SNAKES swimming in the pond.
All the birds had really gone to ground, all that could be seen were the breeding BLACK WINGED STILTS, the MUTE SWAN, half a dozen WOOD SANDPIPERS, a GLOSSY IBIS, two SQUACCO HERON, and a selection of GARGANEY, MOORHEN and COOT. Meeting some of the others they saw nothing different to myself.
Back at the hotel, I went straight in and had a couple of beers, which I drank, on the terrace. In my room I had a swig of ouzo, got into my bathers and had a long cool dip in the pool, not trying to compete with Elaine, who was churning up and down for half an hour.
As it started to cool off, I sat on my balcony with another ouzo and noted a WHITE STORK feeding in the shade at the rear of the boundary trees, an OLIVACEOUS WARBLER hiding from the heat in the foliage, and was startled as a NIGHTINGALE suddenly started tuning up about five yards away in the closest tree. It fortunately moved on before bedtime.
During the meal; Paul went to talk to the leader of the Speyside birdwatchers party, who had been on the East River flood bank that morning. This guy was apparently a raptor expert and Paul asked if he’d seen a juvenile Pallid Harrier that morning. He confirmed that he had, but had also seen a juvenile Montagu’s as well, so regretfully we had to write it off. Following a number of beers I went to bed at 23:00. |
